“I find Moreau to be one of the most exciting young growers in Chablis and his wines are well worth the trouble to get to know if you haven't yet tried them.” Allen Meadows of Burghound
Alain Graillot, Syrah producer extraordinaire from the Northern Rhone, introduced many people to the wines of Stéphane Moreau. I really enjoy hearing when a winemaker I appreciate recommends another producer as "one to watch". My first introduction to Moreau Naudet came in March 2013, having lunch in Chablis between tastings, with Justin Willett of Tyler and Tommy Wenzlau of Wenzlau Vineyards.
Stéphane Moreau is a protégé in the vineyard management and winemaking concepts of Vincent Dauvissat, Didier Dagueneau and Nadi Foucault (Clos Rougeard). He offers everything we search for in quality growers, starting with a vast holding of old vines with many parcels at 50 years of age. Another great attribute is his youthful approach in turning his family domaine around with the use of non-industrial growing methods and a goal to create truly distinctive and extraordinary wines.
The Moreau methods on 13.5 hectares are as follows – hand ploughing, organic viticulture, hand-harvesting, whole berry pressing, natural yeast fermentation, natural settling, long slow elevage in large oak and low sulfur. My experience over the years has the wines showing riper than many of his peers who farm the same parcels.
The Petit Chablis comes from a single 2.5-hectare site, with a southwest orientation, and on Kimmeridgian limestone (not the Portlandian soils that much Petit is sourced from). The 25-year-old vineyard, inherited from a family friend, lies in Courgis on the Chablis-St Bris road. This was tasted fresh from the first bottling run; engagingly vinous for the level, with zingy fresh chalk, sliced lemon and crème fraîche aromas; articulates the best of the vintage yet remains lifted and icy cool. Reassuringly inexpensive for its level.