Thiébault Huber spent many years working in Alsace, as a sommelier and then for a short while at Domaine Marcel Deiss. His grandparents ran the Verdereau family domaine (founded in the 19th century) but retired in 1974, having rented out the vines for the next 20 years as no one in the family wanted to take on the project. In 1994 Thiébault left Alsace to restore the domaine and began the process for recovering all the family vines, which finally came to a contractual close in 2010. He now has 9.5 hectares (just over 23 acres) under ownership which include Chardonnay from Puligny Montrachet and Meursault (3 hectares) and Pinot Noir equally distributed between Pommard and Volnay.
Thiébault is the president of the Volnay winegrowers’ association, started converting all his vines to organic and biodynamic farming practices in 2001 and was Demeter certified in 2005. His thoughts behind this multi-year process toward certification and vineyard revitalization are simple:
“One of my plots was next to the vines of Frédéric Lafarge and I was fascinated to see the difference between our vines. I soon decided that if I wanted to translate the different terroirs in the most efficient way, then I would have to follow these rules in my vines.”
The Volnay ‘Les Fremiets’ parcel under ownership is only .11 hectares (.27 acres) with vines replanted in 1987 (only 30 cases were bottled in 2014). Aged for 15 months in one 300-liter barrel I had only plus symbols in my notes while tasting this wine. A fine and elegant 1er Cru bottling that is great to enjoy now so don’t hold back. If you want to lay a couple bottles down you will certainly be smiling in five years when you open one.